# Used car buying FAQ — AutoScout

Answers to the questions buyers most commonly ask before picking up a used car in the UK. Written for anyone buying their first used car or returning after a long gap.

Live version: https://autoscout.fyi/faq

## Should I buy a new or used car?

Honestly, used. A new car drops 40% in value in its first year alone. That's someone else's problem when you buy used. A 2-3 year old approved used car with low mileage gets you the same kit at a fraction of the price. I'd only go new if you want a very specific spec or you're planning to keep it for 10+ years.

## What's a good mileage for a used car?

UK average is about 7,000 miles a year, so a 5-year-old car around 35,000 miles is perfectly normal. Low mileage isn't always a good sign though. Cars that only do short city trips can actually be harder on the engine than motorway miles. In my experience, full service history matters far more than mileage.

## Do I need to pay a deposit when buying?

Dealers will usually ask for £100–£500 to hold the car while you sort finance or payment. That's fine, and it's refundable if something falls through on their end. What I'd never do is hand over a large deposit to a private seller before you've done all your checks. Wait until you're ready to complete.

## What documents should the seller provide?

You need the V5C logbook. Full stop. Check the VIN on the V5C matches the car, and that the seller's details match their ID. Beyond that: service history, MOT certificates, owner's manual, and ideally two sets of keys. A missing V5C is a massive red flag. Walk away.

## Should I get a vehicle history check?

Always. For about £20 through HPI, Experian, or the RAC you'll find out if the car is stolen, written off, has outstanding finance, or has clocked mileage. Roughly 1 in 3 used cars has a hidden issue. Dealers should hand this over for free, but I'd verify it myself regardless.

## What's the best way to pay for a car?

Under £10k: save up and pay cash, it's that simple. £10k–£25k: a personal loan from your bank at 3–7% APR usually beats dealer finance. Over £25k: PCP makes sense if you swap cars every 3–4 years, HP if you want to own it outright. Don't put a big purchase on a credit card, the fees will sting.

## Can I negotiate the price at a dealer?

Yes, and you absolutely should. Dealers expect it. I've regularly knocked 5–10% off asking prices just by being polite but prepared. Do your research on Auto Trader first so you know what comparable cars are going for. End of month or end of quarter is when dealers are most motivated to move cars, so use that to your advantage.

## What warranty should I expect?

New cars typically get 3–7 years manufacturer warranty. Approved used from franchised dealers usually comes with 12 months. Independent dealers are legally required to give you at least 3–6 months on cars over £500. Private sales are sold as seen, with no warranty whatsoever. Always read what's actually covered; some warranties quietly exclude clutch, electrics, and exhaust.

## Should I buy from a dealer or private seller?

Dealers cost more, typically 10–15% more, but you get proper protection under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, a warranty, and somewhere to go if something goes wrong. Private is cheaper but you're on your own once you drive away. For cars under £3,000 a private sale can be decent value if you know what you're looking at. Above £10k, I'd stick with a dealer.

## What's the most important thing to check on a test drive?

Listen and feel for anything that seems off: squeaky brakes, rough gear changes, steering pulling to one side, warning lights, odd engine noises. Drive it on a mix of roads. Test the air con (costs £500–£1,000 to fix if it's dead). Check all the electrics. Mostly though, trust your gut. If something feels wrong, it probably is.

## When is the best time of year to buy a used car?

December and January are good, as dealers want to clear stock before year-end and are more willing to deal. September and October can also work once the new plates drop and dealers are taking in trade-ins. Avoid buying in March or September when new plates launch and used prices creep up, and steer clear of summer when demand peaks.

## Should I buy a petrol or diesel car?

Petrol if you do under 12,000 miles a year: cheaper to buy, cheaper to service, simpler. Diesel makes sense at 15,000+ miles a year or regular motorway runs, where you'll notice the fuel savings. If you mostly do short city trips, really avoid diesel. The DPF will block up and you're looking at an expensive repair.

## Do I need to tax and insure before I drive away?

Yes, both, before you move the car. Sort tax on gov.uk/vehicle-tax using the V5C reference number. Get at least third-party insurance in place before pickup: driving without it is 6 penalty points and a £300+ fine. Most dealers will give you a few minutes to sort this while they prep the paperwork.

## What checks should I do before paying?

Run the free MOT history check at gov.uk/check-mot-history to spot mileage discrepancies. Get a paid vehicle history check for stolen or written-off status. Verify the VIN plate matches the V5C. Test drive for at least 20 minutes on real roads. Check every electric works: windows, mirrors, lights, air con. Look under the wheel arches and sills for rust. And make sure the service history actually matches the car's condition.